Sea Trial & Survey Checklist: What to Inspect Before Buying in Indonesian Waters
A pre purchase yacht survey checklist for Indonesian waters covers six areas: hull, machinery, electrical systems, safety equipment, the sea trial, and the paperwork trail. Add a seventh for any phinisi or timber hull: marine borers, fastening corrosion, and freshwater rot, all more likely here than in cooler climates.
The inspection-day companion: checks you run yourself, or follow alongside a surveyor, before money changes hands. It does not replace a professional condition survey, but it sharpens your questions and grounds the negotiation in evidence. Beforehand, ask the seller for a haul-out or diver footage, a genuine cold start on inspection morning, and the service records. For the full done-for-you process, our pre-purchase yacht survey service in Indonesia arranges accredited surveyors, haul-out, and sea trial together.
Hull and structure
Fibreglass (GRP) hulls
- Tap the hull: a sharp ring is sound, a dull thud means delamination or a wet core
- Check below the waterline for osmosis blisters that weep acidic fluid when pierced
- Check the keel-to-hull joint for a cracked filler line, a “keel smile” signalling past grounding
- Grip the rudder for bearing play, and check the propeller shaft’s cutless bearing
- Note the anodes: wasted is normal, missing or untouched tells its own story
Steel and aluminium hulls
Corrosion hides at the waterline, the bilge, and behind tanks and linings: look for pitting, scale, and bubbling paint, and flag anything unseen for an ultrasonic gauge. On aluminium, check where stainless steel meets the hull, a classic galvanic-corrosion point.
Phinisi and timber-specific checks
Traditional phinisi are hand-built in South Sulawesi on an ulin (ironwood) keel with teak or hardwood planking, immensely strong vessels, but timber lives a harder life in tropical water than in cold water.
- Marine borers. Probe planking near the waterline, stem, and sternpost with an awl once hauled; sound wood resists, tunnelled wood gives way even if the surface looks fine.
- Fastening condition. Black staining from fastenings, known as iron sickness, signals corrosion and weakened timber beneath. Ask what the fastenings are and when replaced.
- Freshwater rot. Trace deck leaks downward through beam joints, the mast step, and covering boards, probing for rot’s soft, spongy feel.
- Frames and repairs. Check frames in the bilge for cracks and for “sistered” frames (new timber bolted alongside old); a long run tells its own history.
- Caulking rhythm. Check seams for hardened or missing caulking, and ask when last recaulked and hauled; annual haul-out is typical here.
Machinery and drivetrain
- Start cold and watch the exhaust: blue smoke means burning oil, black smoke means fuel or loading issues, white smoke means coolant trouble
- Pull the dipstick: milky, mayonnaise-coloured oil signals water contamination
- Check engine mounts, belts, hoses, and the raw-water impeller
- Shift into forward and reverse at idle and listen for clunks
- At the stern gland, a slow drip at rest is normal; a stream is not, and the generator gets the same cold-start check
- High-hour engines justify a lab oil analysis, cheap insurance included in professional surveys
Electrical systems
- Open the panel: tinned marine cable and proper crimps are good signs; household wire and green corrosion are common problems
- Load-test the batteries
- Confirm every bilge pump runs on its float and manual switch
- Power up navigation lights, instruments, autopilot, radar, and radios
- Test shore power, charger, inverter, and solar under real load, not just the voltmeter
Safety equipment
Each item is either in date, or a line on your negotiation sheet:
- Liferaft: service sticker in date, capacity matching the vessel’s use
- Flares and pyrotechnics: expiry dates current
- EPIRB: battery date, hydrostatic release date, registration current
- Fire extinguishers: gauges in the green, service tags current
- LPG installation: bottles in a locker draining overboard, hoses in date, gas alarm working
- Lifejackets and harnesses: enough for the certified crew count, in serviceable condition
The sea trial: what to test underway
A sea trial is a structured load test, not a joyride:
- Full throttle: engine should reach rated maximum rpm, or it is overloaded, overpropped, or unwell
- Hold cruising rpm until temperatures stabilise, then run the rpm range checking for vibration
- Helm hard over both ways, autopilot engaged and disengaged
- Vessel backed down hard, anchor deployed and recovered under real load
- On a sailing phinisi, sails hoisted and rigging checked under tension
- After the run, check bilges and engine room: new water, oil, or smells are the day’s most honest findings
Paperwork and what the checklist is for
Verify documents as carefully as the hull: the Grosse Akta (deed of ownership), Surat Ukur (measurement certificate), certificate of nationality (Pas Besar or Pas Kecil), current safety certification, and no mortgages against it. Foreign-flagged or commercial-charter cases add licensing questions, where our done-for-you package earns its keep.
Almost no survey comes back clean: the point is a priced list, items the seller fixes, items that adjust the offer, items you accept. For most yachts and phinisi in the 15–30 metre range, a full survey with haul-out typically starts in the low thousands of dollars, small against the cost of finding borer damage or a tired gearbox later. Findings become the plan for the first yard period; our yacht refit and repair brokerage turns it into scoped, quoted yard work.
Ready for an inspection day? Talk to us on WhatsApp at +62 811-3941-4563 or email bd@juaraholding.com. We work with vetted independent surveyors and yard partners across Indonesia.






